November is the month when the kitchen gets serious about comfort food.
October still has a certain enthusiasm about it. There are pumpkins everywhere, apples falling off trees and enough autumn colour to make even a trip to the supermarket feel reasonably cheerful.
Then November arrives.
The clocks have gone back. It’s dark before you’ve properly considered what to make for dinner. The heating is on, the washing refuses to dry and suddenly a bowl of soup with a large piece of buttered bread seems like an excellent life decision.
And, as it happens, November is rather good at providing the ingredients.
The British harvest hasn’t finished. It’s simply changed character.
The orchards have mostly finished picking, but their apples and pears are still finding their way into kitchens. The fields are producing leeks, cabbages, parsnips and other hardy vegetables. There are chestnuts to roast, winter squash to cook and plenty of good British seafood to look out for.
This is the time of year when the food becomes a little more substantial. Less cucumber and tomato salad, more roasted roots and things bubbling away in a casserole dish.
And I, for one, am quite happy with that arrangement.
So, what’s in season in November in the UK?
Rather more than you might think.
Apples
We may have moved beyond the main apple harvest, but November is still a very good month for British apples.
One of the clever things about apples is that certain varieties store remarkably well. While the orchards are losing their leaves, fruit picked weeks earlier can still be crisp, fragrant and perfectly good to eat.
Bramley’s Seedling remains one of our great cooking apples. Sharp enough to make your face briefly rearrange itself when eaten raw, but wonderful once cooked with a little sugar.
Then there are the eating varieties. Egremont Russet, with its distinctive rough skin and nutty flavour, is particularly lovely at this time of year. Late-keeping varieties such as Winston can also be found.
November is a good month to make proper use of apples.
Bake them whole with cinnamon and raisins. Make a crumble. Add chopped apple to a pork casserole. Cook them gently into a sauce or slice them into a sandwich with mature Cheddar.
And if you haven’t tried apple in a parsnip soup, do.
The sharpness works beautifully against the sweetness of the vegetables.
Pears
Pears are still worth looking out for in November, particularly British Conference pears and other late or carefully stored varieties.
A good pear is a lovely thing.
The difficulty, as anyone who has ever bought a bag of them will know, is persuading them to ripen at a reasonable pace.
They can spend days resembling small green rocks before deciding, apparently overnight, that their moment has passed.
But catch them at the right time and they’re delicious.
Eat them fresh, poach them with cinnamon, bake them into a pudding or serve slices with walnuts and blue cheese.
Pears are also rather good with chocolate.
A warm pear and chocolate pudding on a cold November evening is certainly one way of improving the weather without having any influence over it.
Quince
Quince is one of those fruits that seems to have slipped out of everyday British cooking.
Which is a shame, because it’s rather wonderful.
It looks vaguely like a cross between an apple and a pear, smells beautifully fragrant and is generally far too hard and sharp to eat raw.
Not exactly promising.
But give it time in a saucepan and everything changes.
As quince cooks, the flesh softens, its fragrance develops and, depending on the variety and cooking conditions, it can turn a lovely rosy pink.
The main British harvest is usually in October, but you may still find late or stored quinces in November, particularly at farm shops and specialist greengrocers.
Make quince jelly. Poach slices gently with sugar and spices. Add it to an apple crumble or turn it into membrillo, the thick quince paste traditionally served with cheese.
Quince and a good mature Cheddar is a particularly fine combination.
Some things deserve to make a comeback.
Parsnips
November is when parsnips really begin to earn their place in the kitchen.
They’re available earlier in autumn, of course, but colder weather can improve their sweetness, which is why they’re so closely associated with winter cooking.
And what a useful vegetable they are.
Roast them until the edges turn golden. Add them to stews. Make parsnip and apple soup. Mash them with potatoes or turn them into a creamy purée.
A little mustard works beautifully with roasted parsnips, as does thyme, honey or a scattering of grated Parmesan.
And while they inevitably appear on the Christmas dinner plate, there’s absolutely no reason to wait another month.
Parsnips are perfectly capable of being delicious without a paper hat and a cracker.
Swede
Swede is unlikely to feature in many glamorous food photographs.
It’s large, rather heavy, occasionally awkward to peel and generally looks as though it has been designed for durability rather than beauty.
But it is one of our most dependable winter vegetables.
British swedes are in season throughout the colder months, and their sweet, golden flesh is excellent mashed with butter and black pepper.
Combine swede with carrots for a traditional accompaniment to a roast dinner, add it to vegetable soups or cut it into chunks for a slow-cooked casserole.
It is also very good roasted.
And unlike some vegetables, swede doesn’t need an elaborate sauce or twelve other ingredients to make it worthwhile.
Sometimes butter is enough.
A principle that applies to quite a lot of good cooking.
Celeriac
Now here’s a vegetable that could benefit from better public relations.
Celeriac looks like a turnip that’s had a difficult week.
Knobbly, muddy and generally rather uninviting, it’s easy to walk past it in the greengrocer without giving it a second thought.
Which would be a mistake.
Beneath that extraordinary exterior is a pale, delicately flavoured vegetable with a lovely nutty, celery-like taste.
Celeriac is in season during autumn and winter and is particularly good in November.
Mash it with potatoes. Roast it in thick wedges. Add it to soup or grate it raw into a traditional celeriac remoulade with mustard and a creamy dressing.
One of my favourite ways to use it is in a simple soup with onions, garlic and vegetable stock, blended until smooth and finished with a little cream.
It tastes far more sophisticated than its appearance suggests.
A useful reminder not to judge a vegetable by its skin.
Leeks
Leeks are one of those ingredients that make November cooking feel exactly right.
There’s something very reassuring about a pan of leeks slowly softening in butter while the weather outside does whatever November weather has decided to do.
They’re milder than onions, beautifully sweet when cooked and useful in almost everything.
Leek and potato soup is an obvious favourite, but leeks are equally good in chicken pies, cheese gratins, risottos and creamy sauces.
Try cooking sliced leeks gently in butter, adding a little wholegrain mustard and crème fraîche, then spooning the mixture over a baked potato.
Very little effort. Very good dinner.
One thing worth remembering is to wash them thoroughly.
Leeks have a remarkable talent for storing soil between their layers, and gritty soup is not a seasonal speciality anyone particularly wants.
Brussels Sprouts
Yes, they’re here.
And no, you don’t have to wait until Christmas.
Early British Brussels sprouts begin appearing during autumn, with the main season continuing through winter.
They’re one of those vegetables that have suffered terribly from the way they were cooked in the past.
Boiled until soft, grey-green and thoroughly miserable, it’s hardly surprising that generations of children regarded them as a form of punishment.
But fresh Brussels sprouts are genuinely good.
Halve them and roast with olive oil until the edges become crisp. Fry shredded sprouts with garlic and a little butter. Add toasted chestnuts or walnuts.
They also work beautifully with mustard and cream.
The secret is not to cook every last bit of character out of them.
A Brussels sprout should still have some dignity when it reaches the plate.
Kale and Winter Cabbage
By November, the leafy greens of summer have largely given way to sturdier things.
Kale and winter cabbage are exactly what we need.
Kale has enough character to stand up to garlic, chilli, beans, sausages and slow-cooked stews. It can be steamed, sautéed, roasted or added to soup.
Savoy cabbage, with its crinkled leaves, is particularly good shredded and cooked briefly in butter.
Red cabbage is another November favourite, especially when braised slowly with apples, onions, a little vinegar and warm spices.
It makes a wonderful accompaniment to roast dinners and reheats beautifully, which is always useful when you’re cooking for more than two people.
And don’t overlook the humble white cabbage.
Finely shredded into coleslaw, cooked in a stir-fry or added to a hearty soup, it’s one of the most useful and economical vegetables around.
Cabbage may not be fashionable.
Fortunately, it doesn’t need to be.
Jerusalem Artichokes
Jerusalem artichokes begin coming into their own as autumn moves towards winter.
Despite the name, they have nothing to do with Jerusalem and aren’t closely related to globe artichokes.
They’re actually members of the sunflower family.
Their knobbly tubers have a lovely sweet, nutty flavour and can be roasted, mashed or turned into soup.
Roasted with garlic and thyme, they’re particularly good.
There is, however, one small detail worth mentioning.
Jerusalem artichokes contain inulin, a carbohydrate that can cause rather enthusiastic digestive activity in some people.
So if you’ve never eaten them before, perhaps don’t begin with an enormous plateful.
Especially if you’re expecting company.
Pumpkins and Winter Squash
Halloween has passed, but that doesn’t mean pumpkins and squash should disappear from the kitchen.
Quite the opposite.
Many winter squash varieties store beautifully after harvesting, making November an excellent time to enjoy them.
Butternut squash is probably the most familiar, although farm shops often have other varieties, including Crown Prince, with its blue-grey skin and rich orange flesh.
Roast squash with sage and garlic. Turn it into soup. Add it to risotto, curry or a vegetable pie.
Smaller varieties can be halved, roasted and stuffed with rice, lentils, mushrooms or cheese.
And if you still have an edible pumpkin left from Halloween, there’s no need to waste it.
Although if it’s been sitting outside with a candle inside for several days, perhaps that particular pumpkin has completed its duties.
Potatoes
November cooking without potatoes would be a rather miserable business.
Most British potatoes available now are from the maincrop harvest, carefully stored for use throughout autumn and winter.
And they are worth their weight in gold when it comes to inexpensive, satisfying meals.
Mashed potatoes with butter. Crispy roast potatoes. Jacket potatoes. Potato gratin. Bubble and squeak. Leek and potato soup.
The possibilities are endless.
A baked potato with mature Cheddar and baked beans remains one of the finest examples of a meal that is cheap, filling and completely satisfying.
No elaborate ingredients.
No complicated instructions.
Just a potato doing exactly what a potato ought to do.
Chestnuts, Walnuts and Hazelnuts
November is a lovely month for nuts.
Sweet chestnuts may still be available from the late autumn harvest, while walnuts and hazelnuts gathered earlier in the season are ready to be enjoyed.
Chestnuts are particularly associated with colder weather, although they’re useful for much more than roasting over an open fire.
Add them to stuffing, crumble them into soups or combine them with Brussels sprouts and butter.
Walnuts are excellent in cakes, salads and savoury dishes, particularly with pears or blue cheese.
Hazelnuts work beautifully with chocolate, roasted vegetables and autumn puddings.
And if you’ve never made a simple apple and walnut cake, November is a very good time to put that right.
Mushrooms
November is still a wonderful month for mushrooms.
Damp weather brings all sorts of fungi into British woodland, although wild mushrooms should only ever be eaten when their identification has been confirmed by someone suitably experienced.
Some poisonous species look alarmingly similar to edible ones.
Fortunately, British-grown cultivated mushrooms are available throughout the year, so there’s no need to take chances.
And mushrooms are exactly the sort of food November calls for.
Fry them in butter with garlic and thyme. Pile them onto toast. Add them to risotto or pasta. Make mushroom soup or a rich mushroom and ale pie.
A bowl of creamy mushrooms on toast is one of those meals that feels rather indulgent despite being wonderfully simple.
Particularly when the bread is good.
Mussels
November is also a good time to turn our attention towards the sea.
British mussels have long been associated with the colder months, and while farmed mussels may be available at other times, autumn and winter remain particularly familiar seasons for enjoying them.
They’re one of the simplest seafood dishes to prepare and need very little to make them delicious.
Shallots, garlic, parsley and a little white wine or stock are quite enough.
Steam them until cooked, serve in a large bowl and provide plenty of crusty bread for the cooking juices.
Because leaving those behind would be a terrible waste.
Always buy mussels from a reputable supplier and follow proper storage, preparation and cooking advice. Shellfish can carry foodborne illness, so handling them carefully matters.
Oysters
Oysters are another traditional cold-weather seafood.
Britain has a long history of oyster cultivation, particularly around places such as Whitstable and Colchester.
Native oysters have traditionally been associated with autumn and winter, although harvesting seasons and availability depend on the species, location and fishery regulations.
Pacific oysters are also cultivated in British waters.
If you enjoy oysters, November can be a good month to seek out responsibly sourced British ones.
They can be served cooked with a little garlic and herb butter, or baked with breadcrumbs.
Raw oysters carry a risk of foodborne illness, even when bought from reputable suppliers, so thoroughly cooking them is the safer choice.
And if oysters have never appealed to you, there’s no need to force the issue.
Fortunately, Britain has plenty of other seafood to offer.
Scallops
Scallops are one of the loveliest ingredients to come from British waters.
Their sweet, delicate flavour makes them particularly good with simple accompaniments.
A little butter, lemon and perhaps some celeriac purée are all they really need.
Scallops can be available at different times of year, depending on the fishing area and local restrictions, so November isn’t necessarily their peak season everywhere.
When buying them, it’s worth asking where they’ve come from and how they were harvested.
Some scallop dredging can damage seabed habitats, so sourcing from well-managed fisheries matters.
Cook them carefully until properly cooked through, without allowing them to become tough.
Good scallops deserve a little attention.
And perhaps a decent glass of something alongside them.
Herring
Herring deserves a special mention in any November guide to British seasonal food.
Particularly here in Norfolk.
For generations, the autumn herring fishery was central to life in Great Yarmouth and Lowestoft. Fishing boats arrived in their numbers, and the work of catching, curing and processing herring supported thousands of livelihoods.
The famous Scottish herring girls travelled down the east coast following the seasonal catch, working long hours gutting and packing fish.
It’s an extraordinary part of our coastal history, and one that deserves to be remembered.
Today, herring remains an important food fish, although availability depends on the particular stock and fishery.
It’s an oily fish with a rich flavour and is excellent grilled, baked, smoked or pickled.
Kippers, of course, are one of the great traditional British breakfasts.
Not everyone wants smoked fish first thing in the morning.
But for those who do, a good kipper with buttered toast is a very fine start to a cold November day.
Crab and Other British Fish
Depending on the region and weather, November can also bring locally landed brown crab, haddock, hake, plaice and other fish to British fishmongers.
The important thing is not to assume that everything caught in British waters is automatically sustainable.
Fish stocks, fishing methods and local restrictions vary considerably, so it’s worth checking the Marine Conservation Society’s Good Fish Guide when choosing seafood.
If you’re lucky enough to live near the coast, a good local fishmonger can be a wonderful source of information.
Ask what’s been landed.
Ask where it came from.
And perhaps try something you wouldn’t normally buy.
A piece of fresh fish, baked with butter, lemon and parsley, served with potatoes and winter greens, makes a lovely November supper.
It doesn’t need to be complicated.
Venison, Pheasant and Partridge
November is also part of the traditional British game season.
Venison, pheasant and partridge have long been associated with autumn and winter cooking, particularly in rural communities.
Venison is a lean, richly flavoured meat that works beautifully in slow-cooked casseroles with root vegetables, mushrooms and herbs.
Pheasant can be roasted or cooked gently in a casserole with apples, cider and thyme, while partridge is often served with seasonal vegetables.
The availability of wild venison depends on the deer species, management practices and legal shooting seasons. Pheasant and partridge have their own open seasons too.
If buying game, choose a reputable supplier and ask about provenance. Wild-shot game can contain lead ammunition fragments, so lead-free game is the better choice, particularly for children and pregnant women.
And if game isn’t something you eat, the same autumn flavours work beautifully with mushrooms, lentils and root vegetables.
A good casserole is a good casserole.
What to Cook in November
If you’re wondering what to make with all this seasonal food, November is the month to embrace simple, warming meals.
Think:
- Parsnip and apple soup
- Leek and potato soup with crusty bread
- Roasted squash and sage risotto
- Creamy mushrooms on toast
- Celeriac and potato gratin
- Brussels sprouts with chestnuts
- Red cabbage braised with apple
- Mussels with garlic and parsley
- Baked British fish with winter greens
- Venison or mushroom casserole
- Swede and carrot mash
- Pear and chocolate pudding
- Apple and walnut cake
- Roasted Jerusalem artichokes with thyme
- Proper homemade apple crumble
Nothing particularly elaborate.
Just good ingredients, cooked well.
November is not the month for spending three hours arranging seven tiny things on an enormous plate.
It’s the month for generous portions, warm kitchens and food that makes you feel pleased to be indoors.
Eating Seasonally Doesn’t Have to Be Complicated
One of the things I like about eating with the seasons is that it doesn’t require a complete change of lifestyle.
You don’t need to shop exclusively at farmers’ markets, grow your own vegetables or know the Latin name of everything in the greengrocer.
Just pay a little attention to what’s available.
Look for British-grown produce when it’s in season. Try a vegetable you haven’t cooked before. Ask your fishmonger what’s local. Buy apples rather than strawberries when the orchards have just finished harvesting.
And don’t assume that eating seasonally has to be expensive.
Swedes, carrots, cabbage, potatoes and leeks are amongst the most useful ingredients for making inexpensive meals.
A large pan of soup can provide several lunches. Leftover roasted vegetables can become a frittata. Yesterday’s mashed potatoes can turn into bubble and squeak.
And an apple that’s beginning to look a little tired can still make a perfectly respectable crumble.
There is something rather satisfying about making good use of what we buy.
Especially when food prices make waste feel all the more frustrating.
Why November’s Harvest Is Worth Celebrating
We tend to think of harvest as something that happens in late summer and early autumn.
Golden fields, overflowing orchards, pumpkins and baskets of apples.
And of course, that’s part of it.
But the British harvest doesn’t simply stop when October ends.
November has its own abundance.
There are hardy vegetables coming from the fields, apples and pears being brought out of storage, chestnuts and nuts from the autumn harvest, and fishing boats returning to harbour with the day’s catch.
It’s a reminder that our food comes from many different places, and that the seasons shape far more than the view from the window.
They shape what we grow, what we catch, what we cook and, if we let them, what we look forward to eating.
There’s a lot to be said for that.
We can buy almost anything at almost any time of year now, which is convenient, certainly. But it does mean that the pleasure of waiting for something can get a little lost.
The first asparagus of spring.
British strawberries in June.
A really good apple in autumn.
And now, in November, the return of winter greens, roasted roots and proper warming suppers.
Food has a way of marking the year just as clearly as the changing leaves or the first frost.
So this month, buy some British apples. Give celeriac a chance. Roast your Brussels sprouts instead of boiling them. Try a locally landed fish you’ve never cooked before.
And when the evening turns cold and dark, put something good in the oven.
November has arrived.
We may as well make the most of what’s on the menu.
Further Reading: November Foraging: The Last of the Hedgerow Harvest, What’s in Season in November?, Foraging in November: A Guide to Winter Harvest, From peel to perfection: how to make potato peel soup, Sipping the Story: Beaujolais Nouveau Day Unveiled
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